Sun-damaged, sporty, wearing tracky-daks, passengers can’t be told from cabin crew apart from their uniforms, their Australian chilliness; hedonists mostly, serious adepts of physis, puritanical, wary of alien cuisines, monolingual – all of them start relaxing as cabin crew cross-check, landing gear lowers, ailerons bristle, engines sough and earth climbs. Longitude-trekkers, these new internationalists humbled by nothing, not even their ignorance, chattering blithely, wonder aloud how home has changed in their absence. It hasn’t, but they have. The world has reduced them to miniature giants approaching a sparsely rich country, mulletocratic, athlete-revering, distrustful of politics, obedient. It’s all about making money now, caring for investments as if they were souls, or as if there was no such thing as a soul, or like, whatever. Closer inspection, though, reveals great variety: Shanghai-Chinese returning to investment properties; Heibei tycoons, cashed up and itching to visit the casino; taffy-haired surfers who get on at Cairns and stink of wine-garlic night-before-breath; Euro-tanned backpackers, double-chinned – even the fittest are Maillol-limbed beauties; experts in security returning from Guangzhou to Punchbowl; aromatherapists fresh from new franchises; teachers of English and commerce students back for one more semester. Where are the famous, the rich and powerful? Prize-winning architects returning from Chengdu with the Astrodome contract? Investment bankers from Stanmore? Fact-finding pollies? Business or first class, economy, it doesn’t matter: pig-tailed professionals or t-shirted, unkempt and scolding their children, they all speak the same vulgar-demotic. Even the hosties are customers somewhere or other. Difference is not really monetary – it’s an asset. As wheels kiss the tarmac, dawn strips them bare: so ugly they’re beautiful.