I see Nigella as a sort of role model for all those women for whom eating is a hard-won skill. For me, her real talent lies not in cooking or even her recipes per se, but in her confidently taking a creamy, loaded forkful of carbonara as joyfully as she wields the tools of language.

But as ‘Time Warp’ finished and Craig-as-Frank lurched about the stage, my stomach sank a little. Craig’s Frank was a lot less queer and sexy than I remember him being.